The "Large 3" is an extremely easy mod for your car's electrical system that can help it maintain greater currents for additional energy hungry amps. Have you ever measured your current drop when playing music using the volume towards the max together with your engine running, you'll notice that rather than reading through 14.4v or 13.8 (based on vehicle), your voltmeter will read 13v, 12v, or perhaps lower! It is simple to know if you are going through these current drops by watching your car headlights. When they dim while playing the body, you most certainly have current drop happening. This current drop could cause injury to your amplifier if it's significant enough. I'd a Treo SSX 1500.1 blow since i was letting my current drop to around 9-10v, that the amplifier did not like greatly.
What can cause this issue would be the stock, small gauge wires accustomed to connect various electrical components. The stock wire is generally 8 gauge, that is sufficient enough for roughly 50 amplifiers. Large amps can pull-up and also over 200-300amps, now the thing is the issue.
When you are performing this mod, 3 runs of wire will have to be installed. They're:
Battery positive (+) to alternator - In the positive terminal in your battery towards the alternator positive (+) publishEngine block to chassis ground - From engine block to chasis. This really is to bolster the floor.Battery ground (-) to chassis ground - In the negative terminal in your battery for your car's chassis.
I suggest using 1/ gauge wire. You could utilize 4 gauge wire if that is all you've got lounging around, however, you may as well use 1/ the very first time which means you will not need to go back if you choose to change your system afterwards in the future. The wire I made use of was Knu Konceptz 1/ Kollosus Kable Additionally, you will need 1/ ring devices to terminate the finishes from the wire.
Before you decide to do anything whatsoever, make certain safe. Disconnect the wire in the negative terminal of the battery before beginning. This will make an incomplete circuit and keeps you protected from keeping electrical injuries.
First, measure an overall length of wire to visit out of your battery positive (+) terminal for your alternator. Make certain to depart some slack, around 6 inches, so you'll have the ability to squeeze cable freely. Terminate the finishes from the cable with ring devices, then connect the wire from battery positive (+) terminal for your alternator. There might be a plastic tab around the alternator publish. If there's, proceed and break them back it's things i needed to do. If you do not take away the plastic tab, you will not have the ability to take away the nut from the terminal publish.
Adding a fuse to use between your battery positive (+) and also the alternator is extremely suggested, although not necessary. There's a little chance the wire can come lose and short out, but it is an opportunity many people don't want to consider. On the other hand, I've had no problems within the 24 months I have had the large 3 installed while running an unfused wire.
The next thing is to operate a wire out of your engine block for your car's chassis. This task might be difficult because you might have a difficult time getting a put on the engine block to connect your wire. Search for a non-essential bolt don't use a bolt that holds liquids back.
After that, after this you have to attach another finish from the wire for your chassis ground location. This ground could be anywhere in your car's chassis/frame, but make certain you have metal-to-metal connection with the terminal as well as your ground location. An excellent start would be to follow your stock ground wire to its grounding location. If there's fresh paint on the floor location you've selected, you have to sand them back until it's bare metal to make sure minimal electrical resistance.
Lastly, the ultimate step would be to operate a wire out of your battery's ground (-) terminal down location around the chassis. Appraise the wire and make certain to depart just a little slack just in case you really need it. Then terminate the finishes with ring devices and fix one finish towards the negative terminal and also the other for your grounding location in your chassis (as seen above).
After you have made the brand new, beefier battery ground, you are able to stop, disconnect, do anything you want towards the stock ground wire because that's not necessary any longer. Whenever you think you are finished, proceed and make sure all your connections ensuring they're snug and tight.
There you have it! The "Large 3" has become finished. You need to watch a improvement in current when playing the body at max volume. Before Used to do this upgrade, my current what food was in about 10v under heavy load. After doing the "Large 3" upgrade, my current under heavy load was stable at approximately 11v. A significant large difference based on how much you allocated to the wire and devices. This is exactly why the "Large 3" is the first electrical upgrade you want to do to make sure consistent energy for your amps.
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